A Little History of the Chino
From military origins to modern mischief – the chino unpacked:
There’s something delightfully rabble-rousing about a pair of chino pants. Once the utilitarian workwear of military men—pragmatic, unadorned, and built to last—they’ve since strolled into our wardrobes as enduring icons of easy style. While the term “chino” originally nods to the sturdy cotton twill imported from China, it is the transformation from straightforward, dust-kicked trouser design to an emblem of irreverence and cool that truly marks the garment’s journey.
Historically, the chino was born of necessity. Designed for the rigours of military life, these trousers were woven from durable cotton twill and dyed in khaki—a term derived from the Urdu word for “dust”—to provide practical camouflage on the battlefield. Interestingly, the early military trousers came in two main variants that have since become a source of confusion: traditional khakis and what we now call chinos.
Drawstring chino detail in Khakis vs. Chinos: Not just a matter of colour:
The classic khaki isn’t simply a colour—it denotes a style crafted from heavier cotton twill. Khakis were originally designed with front pleats and cuffs, features that lent them a sturdy, workwear character ideal for the harsh demands of 19th century military duty. In contrast, chinos were developed from a lighter cotton twill, woven to be smooth and form-fitting, with a flat front that eschewed pleats. This design was not only a cost-saving measure during wartime—minimising fabric use—but also provided a streamlined silhouette that was more functional in combat situations. So, while chinos often come in the familiar khaki shade, the distinction lies in their fabric weight and construction: khakis are robust and pleated, whereas chinos are lighter, tapered, and more streamlined.
In the context of combat:
The evolution of these trousers stretches back even further than the modern era. In the mid-19th century, British officers serving in the Punjab began adapting their heavy wool uniforms in response to the sweltering local climate. They traded in their hot, cumbersome garments for lighter, native cotton alternatives. By dyeing these trousers with a local plant called mazari, they achieved a dusty tan hue that came to be known as “khaki.” Both the British and French military quickly adopted this design, using it as the foundation for their khaki uniforms—an innovation that spread throughout the British Empire by the late 1800s.
Later, during the Spanish–American War, American soldiers found that importing these lightweight cotton twill trousers from China was a more efficient solution than manufacturing them domestically. The resulting design was deliberately simple and unadorned, with a tapered, flat front (free of pleats) that reduced costs and was more functional for combat. This streamlined style not only served well on the battlefields but also resonated with returning soldiers, who brought this aesthetic into their lives back home. College students and young professionals then embraced these garments, transforming them into a staple wardrobe piece.
Drawstring Chino in 
Drawstring Chino in Ecru.
Modern icons and the enduring appeal:
In recent years, the chino’s reputation has been further cemented by modern icons who embody its enduring appeal. Consider Jeremy Allen White, whose captivating portrayal of chef Carmy Berzatto in “The Bear” has resonated with audiences far beyond the confines of a busy kitchen. White’s character—balancing the intensity of a high-pressure culinary world with moments of quiet introspection—often wears a pair of chinos that speak to both practicality and style. His wardrobe subtly reinforces the idea that chinos are not merely relics of military history—they are a versatile, modern uniform that adapts to today’s working life.
Together, these influences—from the early British and French innovations in khaki military uniforms, through the American adaptation during the Spanish–American War, to cinematic rebels like Marlon Brando, James Dean, and Paul Newman, and contemporary celebrities such as Jeremy Allen White—ensure that the chino pant remains a garment of paradoxes. It is as much about honouring its utilitarian origins as it is about reinterpreting them for a new era. The Kerrin Drawstring Chinos play up the leisure aspect by incorporating an internal drawcord, making a belt optional and perfectly underscoring the duality of form and function. In the hands of icons and everyday wearers alike, the chino evolves continuously, balancing a legacy of rugged durability with the casual sophistication demanded by modern life.
Ultimately, the chino reminds us that style need not be complicated. It is an understated canvas on which both rebellion and refinement can be painted. Whether you’re wearing them on a hectic day at work or for (hopefully many) moments of leisure, chinos offer the rare combination of comfort, durability, and a touch of irreverence. And in a world that often forces us to choose between practicality and panache, the humble chino proudly declares that you can—and should—have both.
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